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Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2019 is produced by Cyril Jeaunaux of Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin, based in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix on the Côte de Sézanne.
The family domaine was started in 1971 by Cyril’s parents whom he joined in 1999. Cyril now controls the 5 hectare estate located within the village limits. The vineyards have been farmed sustainably and under organic conversion with the 2018 harvest being the first one to be certified as organic. Meunier accounts for 74% of the holdings with Pinot Noir 23% and Chardonnay just 3%. This makes our “Champagne of the Month” even more interesting as it is a Chardonnay dominated blend.
Cuvée Fil de Brume takes its name from the mists which often shroud the Petit Morin valley blanketing the grapes. This geological feature means the valley has a slightly cooler climate with a higher risk of spring frosts which can be catastrophic for the young buds and subsequent harvest. The vines here are south facing and the soil a mix of clay and limestone with flint rocks. The western section of the vineyard has shallow soil with a larger concentration of flint whereas the eastern side has deeper soil and more sparsely scattered flint. Cyril’s vines have an average age of 40 years.
Fil de Brume is a non-vintage wine consisting of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The base wine, equating to 70% of the blend is from the 2014 harvest. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in a 75%/25% mix of cuve inox and fûts. Partial malolactic fermentation is carried out and the wine is afforded 6 months lees contact with a further 42 months in bottle.
Fil de Brume – brut nature
Tasted: 21st February 2019
Appearance: Pale, lemon.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of lime juice, lime rind, lemon rind, gooseberry, honeysuckle, chamomile, honeydew melon, cantaloupe melon, granny smith apple, bramley apple skin, compressed apple, pineapple, lychee, peppermint and a chalky minerality with a hint of gunpowder. Secondary notes of toast, yeast, butter shortbread plus a delicate hint of vanilla. Tertiary aromas of hay, honey, cobnut, almond, dried apple and gingerbread. The finish is long. Alcohol is at 12% abv, disgorged March 2017 without dosage.
This is a beautifully balanced wine, bursting with fruit, freshness and vivacity; it is like Key Lime Pie in a glass! We are always impressed with Cyril Jeaunaux’s champagnes and this is another cracker.
Price circa €28.00