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Our cuvée of the month for August comes from a very interesting producer: Aubry in Jouy-lès-Reims on the western section of the Montagne de Reims/Petite Montagne de Reims.
The house works with a number of forgotten varieties which are used in “Le Nombre d’Or”, our cuvée coming from the 2007 harvest. Using only the cœur de cuvée, it is a Blanc des Blancs including Arbanne, Pinot Blanc, Fromenteau (Pinot Gris), Petit Meslier, En Fumée and Chardonnay. As a result, the taste sensation is considerably different from much of what we have experienced before. The vines are planted “en foule” meaning they are ungrafted and grow in a cluster. This is the traditional method of planting used prior to the phylloxera outbreak.
Vinified in 205 litre oak casks, this wine is almost un-champagne-like with an incredibly fine mousse; an excellent example of what can be achieved with ingenuity and dedication. Despite the delicate floral intricacies, this wine still manages to fill the mouth and has excellent acidity and crisp minerality. The bottle is marked as brut and unfortunately, knowing little about this house and its methods (we have yet to visit); we have no idea of the dosage but anticipate it to be very low.
This is a wonderful champagne, well worth hunting out!
Price circa = €35-40.00
Purchased at Cave des Sacres (Reims)