Our Champagne Week 2019 - Part 2
By champagnediscovery, May 31 2019 05:19PM
A chance for us to look back and share our highlights from Le Printemps des Champagnes 2019.
Sunday and Le Printemps des Champagnes was now in full swing and time at a premium.
Les Mains du Terroir:
With two busy salons, it was always going to be difficult to see as many producers as we wanted to. Especially as there was an intriguing masterclass run by David Lefèvre discussing the effects of minerality on a wine, it’s alcohol and sugar perception. We were able to grab a quick catch-up with Janisson-Baradon and Lacourte-Godbillon before tasting Perseval-Farge whom we had missed on the last two years. We also had an excellent tasting with Eric and Mickaël Rodez and Jean-Pierre Vazart before moving on.
The tactic here was to wait until the afternoon when the salon would be a bit quieter. Quieter it may have been but chances were you would have been able to find more room in a rugby scrum! Sadly, some of the wines had run out but we were still able to see a fair number of producers. We decided to skip most of the producers whom we had tasted at the London salon in October and even then time soon ran out. We started with a producer we know very well and love: Lelarge-Pugeot before moving onto the excellent Charles Dufour. Olivier Horiot’s wines were stunning as always and we tasted great wines with Benoît Déhu, Thomas Barbichon, Leclerc Briant, Pascal Doquet, Cyril Bonnet and Vincent Laval. The standout wines from these producers were: Lelarge-Pugeot “Gueux 2013”, Charles Dufour “Bulles de Comptoir #7”, Olivier Horiot “5 Sens 2013”, Benoît Déhu “La Rue des Noyers 2015”, Thomas Barbichon “Réserve 4 Cépages 2013”, Leclerc Bryant “La Croisette”, Pascal Doquet “Diapason” 2011/10 and Cyril Bonnet “Seconde Nature”. There was also a delicious Demi-Sec from André Beaufort of Polisy in the Aube; made with 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from 1998 with a dosage of 45gl.
Dinner with a good friend at Au Bon Manger rounded off a lovely day with two excellent bottles: Soléra by Olivier Horiot and Les Cognaux by Ruppert-Leroy.
Another busy day ahead with three salons so time management would be key!
Des Pieds et des Vins:
We started the day at a salon which continues to blow us away with the sheer talent and quality on offer. Sadly this year we were not able to try every wine and producer as we had at previous events. The producers we tasted with and wines that particularly impressed us were as follows: Etienne Calsac “Les Revenants”, Agnès Corbon “Brut d’Autrefois” 2017 vin clair (we were up to date on her champagnes), Vadin-Plateau “Intuition” and “Ovalie”, Bourgeois-Diaz “3C Collection” 2014, Barrat-Masson “Millésime” 2012 in magnum, Mouzon-Leroux “Angélique” 2012, Rémi Leroy “Saignée Les Crots” 2013, Guillaume Sergent “Les Prés Dieu X.O” 2012 and Thomas Perceval “La Pucelle” 2014.
An all too quick visit to Club Trésors where we were lucky enough to try some different wines of Jean-Pierre Vazart including a gorgeous “Special Club” 2010; before two excellent first tastings with Cedric Moussé, notably “Terre d’Illite”2013 and Pertois-Moriset “Les Jutées” 2011.
Terres et Vins:
Always a very busy and well-attended salon. The first hour and a half was limited to Vins Clairs only – the still wines from the 2018 harvest and the reason Terres et Vins began their tasting salon. This gave us the opportunity to taste further Vins Clairs which confirmed our opinion that much of these wines are already very drinkable and in some cases you would happily take the bottle now. Going back 5 years, much of the wines were highly acidic and difficult to taste, having now tasted some of these champagnes; we do wonder how the lower levels of acidity in the 2018 harvest will balance with the higher sugar levels from very ripe grapes in the end wine and of course the potential for ageing.
Another hectic day was completed with a quiet dinner at Le Boulingrin, complete with a bottle of “Terre de Meunier” from Jérôme Déhours.
Lee and Gita